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Upcoming Expeditions |
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Mt. Aspiring Guided Climb
Mt Aspiring-(3028 metres) - an icon amongst New Zealand's peaks.
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Mt. Aspiring -Tititea:: Hidden from general view and surrounded by three spectacular glaciers the classical "horn" of Mt Aspiring dominates the sky-scape from the Hollyford to the Haast. The Bonar, the Therma and the Volta glaciers provide limitless mountain terrain. Most of the snow flows westward, hiding it's towering, awe-inspiring faces from general view....Geoff Wayatt, Mountain Guide, 82 ascents (1967-2008). (see GW profile)
Walking access is via the West Matukituki Valley. The valley floor tramping is easy and the views improve from spectacular to awe inspiring at the valley head. Mountain Recreation, School of Mountaineering provides accommodation from it's Shovel Flat base. Two new NZ Alpine Club huts, French Ridge (1465metres-20 persons) and Colin Todd Hut(1725metres-12 persons) provide alpine shelter and a climbing base. Accessing Colin Todd hut requires a crossing of the Bonar Glacier with rope, crampons and ice axe.
A steep, rough track leads to French Ridge Hut( elev. gain 900m - 2 1/2hrs+) The upper valley and access to Colin Todd Hut is a steady and arduous climb. The track deteriorates towards the end of the forest opening up into a bouldered meadow and 1300 metre walls or rock and ice, streaming waterfalls and regular snow avalanches. Rock slabs are climbed towards Hector Col and finally long snow slopes to Bevan Col and a fantastic view of Aspiring
TRAVEL TIMES: Raspberry Flat roadhead to Aspiring Hut - 2 hours; to Shovel Flat 3 hours; to Pearl Flat 3 1/2 hrs. Pearl Flat:- To French Ridge Hut-2 1/2hrs+; to Colin Todd Hut-7hrs.French Ridge Hut to Colin Todd Hut - 5 hrs(alpine)
THE CLIMB: A 10 -13hr. climb from Colin Todd hut or a bivouac on the Bonar Glacier. A 16hr day from French Ridge Hut. It involves roped glacier travel to the base of the peak. A choice of routes includes: The 10 pitch, 50deg. snow ramp to the shoulder or the rock Buttress route. From the Shoulder the climb is less steep and follows the NW Ridge to the Summit. Alternative more challenging routes include: The West Couloir - a steep six pitch climb to the Shoulder; the West Face - a 10 pitch moderate/steep face climb(the original ascent route); the South West Ridge - a classic 14 pitch climb with a spectacular steep 4 pitch finish to the summit. For further details see: mountain essays
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Aspiring Climb -Asp 013 |
| DURATION & COST: Valley to Peak, Walk in/Walk out: | 4 1/2 DAYS | $3,500 |
| Use of helicopter access to Bonar glacier/walk-out | 3 1/2 DAYS | $3,500 |
Included:
Food, transport from Wanaka & hut fees, group and
personal alpine eqt., Nat.Park concession fee and GS Tax.
Additional days are charged at: $595/day. The 2nd person
cost is $1650 (Trek/Course &
Rental Notes)
(Equipment List)
BOOKING: Must be confirmed with a 50% deposit on our Registration Form. See Cancellations & Refunds. We will endeavour to allow a window of five/six days availability for the trip.
FITNESS: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU ARE IN GOOD PHYSICAL FITNESS TO ENSURE A SATISFYING EXPEDITION. Details of experience & fitness are required with booking.
MOUNTAIN RECREATION, EQUIPMENT LIST www.mountainrec.co.nz
Equipment is basically designed to enhance our experience and protect us from harsh climates. Too
often people think that the quantity of gear and personal
pleasure are directly proportional. Some have the notion
that equipment buys safety. Safety has more to do with
experience and risk taking. Over-equipping is like siege
climbing and the cutting of "bucket" steps;
boring, laborious and totally detracting from the freedom
of the sport. Select your clothing and equipment
carefully, according to personal experience. We have
listed the essential item s based on our experience. USE
IT AS A GUIDELINE for a Mt Aspiring Climb: "An
implement shouldn't be an impediment." Parka
Wind and waterproof - Buy gortex w/ waterproof guarantee,
its comfortable and expensive (see MtnRec pricelist)
Underclothes Polypropylene. A turtle
neck with zip gives neck protection.
4 Socks Seamless, sports, wool mix for
warmth. Only 1pr w/Plastic boots for smaller fit.
Hat Sunhat for bright neves (Mtn Rec
Cap.) Balaclava/Ski hat for blizzards. (MtnRec T-shirt
(or business shirt/blouse) for glacier travel, heat
reflection and sleeping (to avoid polyprop smell)
Gloves, Mitts,- 3 pairs -
Polyprop./light wool gloves for mod. temps. &
technical climbing. Pile Gauntlets for blizzards. Wrist
elastics prevent loss Overmitts Prevent wetting, increase
warmth & snowcaving.
Overpants Zip sided (full-length)
lightweight. For blizzards. Pref. micro-porous material. Jersey/Pullover
Fleece/pile with high collar. We have 100 wt/wMtnRec
logo & MtnRec Vests
Gaiters Kneelength.
Zips or buckles for snow. Velcro/domes for mud. Avoid
elastic at ankles.
Sunglasses Dark(Amber) In robust
container. Goggles tend to fog. Glacier glasses with
removable shields are best. Suncreme Strong; plus zinc
creme, lip salve and moisturiser. Bandanas
: Large & lightweight for cover-up of neck & face
on the "sun bowl" glaciers. 1st Aid Kit,For
cuts, burns, blisters, abrasions. Incl: Spenco blister kit
Crepe bandage, lots of tape for feet.
Sleeping Bag Compact. Down w/water resistent outer.
Silk liner for extra warmth.
Knife, fork, spoon, cup, bowl
Waterbottle, One litre, preferably with
wide mouth Toilet Gear
Pack, Large enough for 20kgs. Must have
straps for ice axe, crampons, and sleeping pad.
Headlamp For early
starts and late returns.
Access boots: To avoid blisters we wear
light footwear in the valleys. Rec: Salomon X hiking.
Repair Kit S'driver, pliers,wire,wax etc
(1 per group) Map & Compass Altimeter Optional
Ice Axe, Metal Shaft.
Shorter axes are preferred by shorter climbers and on
steep climbing. Average length:65cm /75cm. A tie on 20mm
webbing wrist sling is rec. Crampons:
Clip on versions suit plastic boots best. Long
spikes are more versatile for NZ conditions. The fit must
be secure with adequate toe point length.
Climbing Harness Lightweight
with adjustable leg loops
Prusik Slings 2 each (Full set
of slings/10metres, 5mm rope)
Pulleys: min. 2 per rope
Karabiners Two locking, two
lightweight.
Mountain Boots: High quality leather or
Plastic. Toes should not quite touch the front. (Leather
boots, rigid)
Sleeping Pad: Essential for bivouacs and
snowcaving.
Hard Hat: To protect
No.1
BivouacBag: For sleeping in
snowcaves-Microporous material. Mtn Rec.HiProVent 2000,
8,000mm.
Belay Plate: Stitch plates
& Air Traffic Controls are currently the best.
Maps: Mt
Aspiring region NZMS 273 1:150000 Mt. Aspiring Guidebook, Al Uren (New Ed.)$30
(Available from MtnRec. Mailorder
Equipment Sales)
Also see Private
Expeditions Also see MtnRec's: Mt. Aspiring Photo Gallery