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WorkShop Manual -Tips, Trix, & Topos
Re: Summer 2000/2001 Observations on
Salomon's Mid Exits,Super Mtn Guide 9's & feet:.
I noticed my feet swell up after a long descent only to
be pleasantly cooled and shrunk by a cold stream
crossing. For the next 1/2 hour you are walking on air.
In his recent book Mountain Solitudes, Aat Vervoon , talks about ongoing foot and boot fitting problems. Many of them would have been resolved by: Selecting the correct flex of boots for the intended journey. Full shank climbing boots aren' t designed for long valley walks. Consider the best flex for your journey. Tape up your feet and shins, if you must complete a walk in heavy climbing boots.
One of my friends, a former Olympian,
is bothered by blisters so runs with plastic bags inside
his running shoes to minimise friction. This would work
with heavier boots and would also provide a vapour
barrier in cold, wet conditions.
Boots too narrow at toes?
Here's my field solution. Press out the toe space with a
wooden broom handle cut slightly longer than your foot
width. Place it in your boot each night to maintain the
width as the leather has a memory for it's former shape.
Use a blister kit patch immediately on any hot spots.
Place on a dry foot.
If the shins are getting sore (Unlikely with Super
Mountain 9 Guides) don't lace the top two hooks. If
damage has already occurred, tape some thin (3mm) closed
cell foam over the sore area to provide padding.
Forget your gaiters and your are getting
into snow country?
Cut a hole in the toes of some old socks and create some
tube puttees.
Boot Odour? (Yes, you'll need some with the high tech.
Mid Exits.)
I recommend Gran's Remedy, Dunedin made. $18.45 for 6
months treatment. They say it's guaranteed too!
Tru-Boot Story from Rebecca Wayatt,
Aspen, Colorado(1999)
Rebecca was fitting out some kids with boots for a ski
lesson when she noticed one young person with a left boot
on her right foot and right on the left.
"You've got the boots on the wrong feet Buddy",
she said.
"A dismayed child replied, "But these are the
only feet I have!
Beaten, but not Out!
I recently put my 2 year old Salomon Mid Exits through
the gruelling task of traversing the Copland Pass, 2135m,
following 2 summers of full time mountain activity.
The Copland Pass crossing included 5 hours of moraine and
scree, steep rock ridge climbing, snow and ice climbing
w/crampons, glissading down snow and two days of wet
valley tramping.
Both the owner and boots have emerged battle weary but relatively unscathed. A testimonial to the quality construction.
Super Mountain 9 - Guides
Mine have completed over 30 ascents this summer and fit
like a glove. Yes, I regularly store them with wooden
dowels across the toe space for improved width. This is
because of 30 years of personal bone spurring through
tight width ski boots.
P.S. 29/3/01 I've just returned from
teaching a 4 day alpine rockclimbing course on the
Remarkables . We did some great pitches, got snowed on
and had to rescue a tent which blew into lake Alta. My
old Mid Exits were soaked , so I plastic bagged my feet
in dry socks for the exit "death march" in
toasty feet.
Get's easier? If it did get easy, then everyone would be
doing it!
Buying
Boots/ avoiding blisters ÓGeoff Wayatt, MountainRecreation
Can one boot fit all people for
all seasons? Just ask an Army Soldier!
Next to food, the wellbeing of my feet is my highest outdoor priority.
To achieve the optimum fit, comfort and performance I follow the following steps when visiting a boot retailer:
What tasks are the boots to perform? (Summer or Winter; valley or alpine; one to multi day trips; on tracks or wilderness terrain)
Access Boots or Climbing Boots? Few boots fit both tasks and it’s worth noting that studies for the ’53 Everest Exp. found 1lb on the feet equaled 4lbs. On the back. I generally carry my climbing boots up long valley access tracks.
ACCESS BOOTS - Base the model format selection on other boots already owned and used. (Once you find a good reliable brand and boot – consider buying a 2nd pair and rotating their use)
Consider the foot fit of the boot without critical reference to the brand or sizing. (Brands often vary by a ½ size)
Examine the sole tread and texture along with the upper construction (Generally the quality of the boot will relate to it’s price level. For me a soft grippy sole is a paramount consideration)
Foot length is more important than volume. (Adding spare inner soles can easily decrease the boot volume. Custom orthopedic footbeds are even better!
Sole Stiffness is a very important consideration for both foot comfort and performance. A half shank sole is good for tramping but not steep ice slopes. However the stiffer soled boots are less forgiving on the flats, so heel rubbing and blisters are likely, unless you tape your feet.
Ankle Support and protection can be gained by choosing a mid or high ankle boots. Low ankle height gives complete ankle movement for tri-athletes. I prefer the anklebone protection and relative freedom of the mid height access boots. I recommend higher boots to tall climbers because their height increases the leverages and the risk of ankle sprain.
CLIMBING BOOTS - It is easier to get an adequate fit in plastic boots with liners. The liners reduce rubbing and blisters. Plastics are generally lighter and cheaper, but lack the ankle flex and feel on foot/rock contact of leather boots.
Plastic Boot fitting – take out the liner and check your foot length in the plastic shell 1st. Foot width isn’t too important as plastics can be easily widened with a hair dryer and short piece of broomstick.
BLISTERS: Some years ago I discussed mtn. medicine with eminent eye surgeon and mountaineer, Sir Randall Elliott. Contrary to my initial thoughts of performing operations with a Leatherman, he said. "Do you know what, I think, we really need in outdoor 1st aid instruction? Asked Randall. "Well… no? " I replied "Good blister treatment!" he stated. "If we improve our management of blisters and we’ll significantly increase the general enjoyment of the outdoors.
Remember to carry tape, a blister kit and 2nd skin and treat "hot spots" immediately. 2nd Skin is excellent for filling the crater left by a ruptured blister.
Geoff Wayatt is a veteran Mtn. Guide of Wanaka, who personally wears Salomon Mid Exits and Super Mtn 9 Guide climbing boots.
5
Fitting Tips: Tony Graham,
Salomon: Salomon work on the Human Print system i.e
the right material in the right place.It is the boot that
should adapt to the foot, not vice versa. This concept is
the result of years of research and experience in Alpine
Ski boots and X-Country ski boots as well as Snowboard
boots. The objective is to offer everyone boots that are
adapted to their activity and meet their needs while
conforming to their foot morphology.
Generally speaking, I find that (technical) boots should
be fitted about one half size bigger than the persons
normal shoes, I use running shoes as a comparisn,
whatever the US size is in the shoe is the size they will
take in our boots.
5 Main points:
Sensifit - both Internal or external,
Contagrip traction
Midsoles - either rigid or semi-rigid shanks
Insoles - Clima-dry conformable
Clima-dry/Gore tex - particularly good feature for winter boots
Lady specific lasting -
I know that was 6 points - but it is important to be able to offer women boots made for women. Tony
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Hot tip! SALOMON’S "MID EXIT " ACCESS BOOT
Ó Geoff Wayatt, MountainRec, Wanaka Email: geoffmtnrec@xtra.co.nz
Some days you start off on the wrong foot and just hope it doesn’t get worse."Are you sure the rock boots were left in the car?" I said in the Remarkables carpark.
Mt. Aspiring was out weatherwise, so I decided on some alpine rock exploration on Double Cone above Lake Alta.
It didn’t really matter who forgot them as we weren’t going to have fine weather day ruined by the lack of one pair of rockshoes. "You wear mine and I’ll climb what I can in these approach shoes. "If it gets tough I’ll use the rockshoes and lower them to you!" I said to my client, Daniel from Pittsburgh.
I’d had a couple of days in the Mid Exit’s, switching from the Super Mountain 9-Guides to save my feet on the long Matukituki valley walk out and found their comfort gave my mountain pounded feet a welcome rest. (60 days of climbing takes it’s toll)
Adventures involve stepping into the unknown and the DBA buttress loomed steep above Lake Alta. On the boulderfield approach, I assured my companion the shoes felt surprisingly grippy on the grainy quartz/schist.
I didn’t mention that the last time I did an impromptu rockclimb was soloing at Baroomba Rocks, Canberra with perennial hardman John Fantini and scared myself shitless! The Mid Exit’s looked more like dress shoes for Surveyors than my old Nike Lavadomes, but on tightening, they seemed to smear well on the slabs of our 1st pitch. My confidence grew as the rock steepened up ribs, chimneys, corners and slabs of Grades 10 - 14.
"Hey, this is really sticky rubber!" I exclaimed at the start of pitch 8, a prow leading to a climbable wall and unseen exit corner to Double Cone’s summit buttresses above. "Not far to go now," I called before rounding the knife edged wall to gaze at a 5 metre overhanging corner, caused by a new rockfall. With a cam and chock for protection I stemmed the flaring corner an abyss between my legs and my Mid Exit’s searching for friction while I handjammed and mantled my way over the roof.
I felt justified in grading the crux Grade 18, when Daniel used a tight rope to surmount the exit moves in my rockshoes! One pitch later we unroped and scrambled to the sharp edged summit and descent gully. We were euphoric; Daniel had climbed a new alpine rock route on the Remarkables. Our wrong footed climbing day had excelled in spite of the mislaid rockshoes, thanks to the Salomon’s Mid Exit contragrip.
"This is a new generation of approach shoe build for the sheer enjoyment of moving over stone whether pavement bashing or boulder field running."
TRIX! CLIMBERS KNEE - the pre-op solution? Ó Geoff Wayatt,MountainRec,Wanaka, NZ
Three years ago I developed the "Wayatt Lock Step" to limit the jarring and impact load on the knees. Recently I came on another protective technique:
WRAP-UPS: Inspired by watching the Atlanta Olympic weightlifting on a rented TV, I summized: "If weightlifters support their knees with bandages while lifting massive weights, why don’t bushwalkers and climbers do it before massive or awkward descents?
I put this to Ken Asher (Townsville Gym) as we crossed the Copland Pass last November. "We call them wrap-ups." he said, endorsing the concept.
I’ve since used them during the summer when I’ve had heavy loads or long descents and benefited from the additional support. To gain optimum support it’s important to buy quality, 12cm elastic bandages and wrap for supportive tension.
Combined with the Wayatt Lock-step, I think I’ve found the ultimate pre-op solution for fading climbers knees!
TRIX! LIPSCREEN NECK CORD by Ó Geoff Wayatt, MountainRec April 1999
Ever found yourself searching through pockets or pack for a tube of lip creme?
A few thoughtful manufacturers have included a colourful neck cord attached to their lipcreme easy access. If your favourite lip creme lacks a cord it’s easily remedied with a one meter length of soft cord knotted and taped to the base of the tube. Place the creme close to your body to aviod cord tangles and to keep the creme soft and easy to apply. Useful for tight belay ledges and -on the move-ski touring, kayaking situations.
Alternatively, a Sydney skin specialist/ ski mountaineering friend of mine who will emain nameless, keeps her "sun sense," a particularly stiff, but effective creme in her bra for convenient, personal use.
The concept can be extended to attaching a lighter, mini swiss army knife or torch for those who suffer frequent bouts of forgetfulness. "Now, where is that string?"
TRIX! LIGHTER LOOP:
Last Dec. I arrived at isolated Empress hut, Mt. Cook Nat. Park tired and keen to get a quick brew going on the stove. Often you can’t find matches quickly or there’s an old box sitting on a wet bench. On this occasion I couldn’t believe my luck.
Hanging from a nail above the bench was a lighter.
An ingenious climber had taken a "twistie" bread bag tie, formed a "horseshoe shape and taped it to the base of the lighter. It’s proved useful on my workshop wall could be securely clipped to that great keyring clip some pack manufacturers put inside their top pocket.
TRIX! CONVERTING AN EXPEDITION PACK TO A DAY PACK
On day trips and climbs in the middle of an extended trip I have found carrying a bulky 80 litre pack an impediment. The simple way to reduce the volume is to tighten up the side straps. Unfortunately a bulky over filled top pocket tends to flop about and can be slow to clip and unclip.
A chance aquisition of a micro light karabiner led me to leaving it on the pack haul strap for a convenient clip-off onto my anchors. I then discovered I could stuff the top pocket into the throat of the pack leaving clear access to the pocket zip compartment. To secure the pack contents I simply clipped the karabiner attached to the haul strap to the compression buckle loop on the other side of the throat. If your pack doesn’t have the loops the add-ons involve very simple machining. Wrap the main pack straps away in the crampon shock cords. Try it and you’ll never have to experience your pack pocket thumping your head again.
Notes
from a bivi ledge on the Bonar Glacier.
Ó Geoff
Wayatt, MountainRec February
1999
Just climbed the SW Ridge with Matt, a Geologist. It was a fun mixed, late season conditions climb. Having trouble going to sleep so thought I’d jot down some summer gear thoughts:
Glasses - I must use a neoprene strap for river crossing, as my designer ($500 version) floated down the swollen Matukituki River when I head dunked in some rapids. (or use the bridge)
Macpac Torre – I narrowed the shoulder strap attachment width to place less strain on my worn out shoulders. It also enables better strap positioning without always attaching the sternum strap.
Salomon Mid Exits – must complain to Salomon that I haven’t been able to wear them out in 18 months – including 16 days on Stewart Island! I use two innersoles to fill the volume whilst maintain toe length w/o pulling laces tight.
Accessory Karabiner: Handy pack strap addition. Use to clip sun cap when not in use.
MSR Wind Shield – By wrapping it around the fuel tank you retain it in a circular, unwrinkled form. Hold with a couple of elastics.
Car Keys – Sew a clip or Velcro loop to inside of pack pockets for securing car keys.
Ice Axe & Crampon Loops – add to packs, if none in place.
Thermal Layering – Use a thin long sleeved, zip collared layer under a short sleeved one. Remember to buy longer and larger than necessary.
Silk Shirt – Effective for glacier travel and favourable fashion comments too!
Water Supplies – Add sugar (6%) and salt (450mg/L) to aid fluid absorption.
Salomon Super Mtn 9 Guides – are still waterproof after 2 seasons. A sheer pleasure to re-discover "French technique" on 1,000 metres of cramponing up the SW Ridge today. Glad I taped my heels and ankle fronts after 2 solid days of ice climbing.
Camera Battery – carry a spare for alpine trips (Oh, yes - remember to load film before shooting a magnificent Aspiring sunrise.)
Neoprene Visor for Helmet – Very effective. Find a source or manufacture for clients.
Hip Hole – used this old bushman’s trick on a flat, hard bivi in combination with my ¾ length thermorest. (Look-out for the New "skin" mats by Artiach/ I'm using one)
Reading and entertainment incl: A near drowning in "The Perfect Storm" and captivation by the mtning prowess and honesty of Anatoli Boukareev’s"The Climb"
Saw Sav.. Prvt. Ryan – Great material for an accident trauma seminar.
Joe Simpsons? – be aware of climbers wearing modern rescue knives.
Games Climbers Play – Observed a grand plateau hut resident "messiah" dominating the hut kitchen pronouncing doom for other climbers before he flew back to the Herm. having climbed little. Others said he also stalked the Tasman Glacier huts subversively undermining others climbing activities.
Cell Phones – Avoid getting stuck on a summit with people with cell-phone fever.
Dry Tooling – an in vogue waterfall-ice climbing term mis-adapted to describe crampon scratching across rock slabs or conveniently axe hooking handholds.
"I was heel hooked by a Kea" – an easy explanation for those phantom face-plant crampon trip-ups, while view-gazing & crossing flat snow.
Useful Link for orthodics, question/answers, news and chat line: www.foot.com