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*****UPDATED: 31 January 2012
Mt. Cook:
3 peaks in 30hrs:
Green, Walter & Hochstetter
Dome
New snowfalls in late January
extend Summer access.
De la Beche hut to be removed 15-22
Feb. See NZAC web site.
http://alpineclub.org.nz/
Dasler Pinnacles:
Dazzling mtn bike/tramp/climb
3 SAR Ops on NY's Day
Mt. Aspiring Treks:
Update and photos
Classis Ascents:
Aspiring's
SW ridge (2 in
Dec.) photos
Minarets:
West Face & Franz/Fox Glacier traverse
New
!
Wanaka walks -
Breast and Corner Peak
New
! West Coast Photo Expedition
Technical Notes -
Crampon attachments
- Reflector Tape and NVG's
50 words for snow?/New Kate Bush album
tentatively
treading and arete,TasmanGl.Aoraki Nat.Pk.Jan. 2012: GW
Avalanche plunge pool,shovel Flat Nov.2011
Mt.AspiringTreks)
GW
31 Jan 2012 update
50-100cms of new snow in the alps in late on 21/22 Jan. proved
to be good crevasse and ice cover for our climbs in the upper
Tasman. A further 2-300mm of precip. currently falling
will further improve snow conditions above 2000m.
Mt's Green, Walter & Hochstetter Dome (3 in 30hrs)
Mike, Chris and Geoff took advantage of a late jan. 2day fine wx.
window to fly into the upper Tasman gl., bivi on Divers Col
(2681m) and complete climbs of Green (2837m), Walter(2905m) then
back to the glacier (2100m)and across to Hochstetter Dome
(2829m).
Eli de Beaumont and Mt Walter from Mt Green.
photo:GW
Eli from Hochstetter Dome
photo: GW
Nov. 2012: Join Geoff W for a 5 day
ski tour/climb in the upper Tasman
Gl/Franz Josef Glaciers.
Dasler Pinnacles w/Mountainrec Jan.2012
-A great 2-3 day Bike/tramp/climb into the Hopkins
Valley.
In mid Jan. 2012, Mike and GW left Wanaka driving
through to Lake Ohau before riding mtn bikes up the braided
Hopkins valley past the Red hut to the Dasler bivi track. After
a 1-1/2hr steep climb we arrived at the bushline 2 bunk hut,
6hrs from Wanaka. Next morning a long, steep tussock climb led
to scree and the Nth. Ridge.
A 2hr. steep, exposed rock scramble followed up 300m to the
summit. A support rope was carried and used on the descent.
Return trip time from hut: 7hrs. After a rest we descended to
the valley and biked to the car in 2-1/2hrs. with blazing
saddles - no suspension!
Steep climb to Dasler (Nth ridge start in notch)
Summit of Dasler Pinnacle, Mt. Glenmary beyond.
04 Jan 2012
NY's day a busy day for Wanaka SAR volunteers:
A deceased 60yr old Wellington tramper was located on Mt.
Twilight in the Wilkin valley after falling off a bluff while
searching alone for a new route.
A female was extracted from the Motatapu
gorge with a dislocated knee-cap after cliff-jumping into a
pool.
A 15yr old male was extracted from the
gorge late NY's day after getting his foot stuck in boulders and
suspended upside down in a 2m waterfall for 3hrs until a team of
10 SAR personnel could free him, apply CPR and heli-winch him
out of the 45m deep gorge. Sadly he died later in hospital. It
was one of the biggest and most urgent SAR Ops conducted by
Wanaka SAR volunteers.
SAR exercise training in upper Motatupu Gorge,
October 2011
31 Dec - Old "Bucky" continues to disturb Christchurch Residents
with new Quakes and fore-warns of a long recovery period.
Central Chch Container Comeback, Dec 2011
10th December 2011
Minarets via West
Face (Geoff's 10th ascent)
 
W. Face, Minarets & de la Beche Minarets & Aoraki & Tas.
Gl.
The steep west face
provides straight forward early season access onto the visually
central Minarets involving 4-5 pitches of steep ice.
Franz Josef to Fox
Glacier Traverse - A Classic Alpine Journey
 
Pre-frontal dawn, Franz Gl. GW Chancellor
Trough & Fox Icefall
 
Rannuculus Lyallii & Fox Icefall Chancellor hut, Fox
& Tas. Sea
November 2011
Two Wanaka day walks - Breast Peak &
Corner Peak
Aspiring or Aoelus? Which did Surveyor Thompson
name?
see Newsletter
27/12/11:
Valley to Peak ascent of SW Ridge Aspiring - 19/12/11
A well timed pre-Xmas High Pressure enabled Geoff & Dave S. to
complete a 4 day exp. to Asp and complete the climb in "classic"
style (a bit like a GT of Cook). We swung leads up to the
couloir where the thin 10m. water-ice waterfall tested our trad.
ice tools and Dave's nerves watching me demolish the glazed
ribbon dripping with chandeliers and dinner-plating on each
blow. The 16 pitches took us 7hrs and we summated at 1pm before
descending the Ramp. Round trip from Bonar bivi - 13hrs.
(Geoff's 15th ascent of the SW ridge)
 
02/12/11
Geoff climbed the SW ridge on 30/11 with two long-time clients,
coaching them up easier pitches and leading a few of the more
serious ones. The 14 pitch climb took 6hrs incl. 1 steep
waterfall ice pitch and 4 in the final couloir to the summit.
The ascent used a rare 2-1/2 day fine weather window and
involved two cold but spectacular bivis on Mt. French.
 
2011/12 Bonar Glacier Snow Cover:
The
low snowfall winter with strong SW winds is currently apparent on the
glaciers and mtns of the Aspiring region. Expect firmer snow and
more difficult access conditions from mid January onwards.
Geoff&Joe Asp Sum. 30/11/11 Image: chrismortonphotography
 
Escape from windy bivi Chris M clinging to
the"SW Edge"
WEST OF
THE DIVIDE -
PHOTO/CLIMB EXPEDITION
A special
opportunity to visit a high and remote location requiring strong
mtn. fitness, but no specific alpine skills.
It is a chance to photo spectacular alpine & Aoraki/Mt. Cook &
Sefton sunsets.
Includes a spectacular campsite near Welcome Pass and short climb of Scott's Peak
followed by descending the Horace
Walker Glacier into the dynamic Douglas valley for a helicopter
pick-up. Fly-in/Fly out.
Cost: (For
party of 3 with one guide) $1580 per person
Includes: Transport to Fox from Wanaka, helicopter ride to Lucy
Walker Glacier, 3 days guiding fee, alpine eqt. ice axe and
crampons. Cost for 2 persons: $2100 per person
3 Day Aoraki /Sefton Photo
Expedition
MAIN DIVIDE TO THE
SEA -
"Just a taste of mountaineering"
Join us for a 4 day journey down one of
the largest glaciers in New Zealand, the Fox. It's our
HOT new successful expedition requiring a lot of
enthusiasm, good fitness and fine weather. Details: 4
day Fox Expedition
Technical Mountain
Notes 14-11-11
Crampon Straps,
Reflector Tape & camera straps
Crampon Straps: Modifying crampon bail straps for added security.
Crampon security to the boot is a vital component to ice and snow
climbing safety and many climbers have stories of detaching crampons
from a variety of attachments.
The security of "toe
bail" type crampons has has recently come to my attention
following two fatal accidents. The climbers involved happened to
have "toe bail" crampon attachments w/o an added stainless steel
strap linking the toe bail to the ankle safety strap. If
the bail was to become detached then the crampon would hang
loosely on the safety strap. A steel strap adds some stability
to the attachment. I have added steel straps to some bailed
crampons along with additional diagonal straps to add stability.
The exercise was not cheap ($180) but neither is the experience
of discovering a crampon dangling from the ankle strap.
REFLECTING ON NIGHT RESCUE
  
GW's helmet and
gloves reflector tape.
The latest NVG (night vision
goggle) and powerful helicopter searchlight technology means
missing persons can be found by highlighting reflector tape.
NVG's have 6,000 times illumination and see a lighted match from
several kilometres away. More importantly, a search team can
locate a missing person without their imput if their clothing
has reflector tape on it.
Combined with PLB's GPS's and
even your Camera?
I don't know what use it's gps would be, but people have been located by
their camera flash. I carry a Lumen light stick as well.
New developments on Aval.
transceivers and cliff rescue - GW
IKAR (Recent Sweden Workshop)
CAMERA PARA CORD FOR ACTION SHOTS
 
I carry my climbing camera
clipped onto my pack strap in a GW-made soft case w/ spare
battery in lid. It is secured by a parachute cord leash to the
bag. A backup cord also attaches the bag and packstrap incase
the karabiner opens.
ELASTIC CARRY STRAP FOR
INCOGNITO CAMERA BAG
Carrying your camera in a bag ready for action gains the
"capture the moment" shot but is hard on the neck. I've made a a
bag strap from elastic horse bridle elastic and it moves with my
movements. The square non-descript bag is good when in
camera-shy locations. GW
Also see
Trix, Tips,
Topos
-
GW
- Ski Guide to former PM!!!
(for 2 runs in July08 at Cardrona Lift
Opening)
-
Ed
Hillary dies at the grand age of 88.
-
Geoff
Wayatt completes 84th ascent of Mt.
Aspiring w/Scots mate Mike Pappas via the SW Ridge in
Jan. 2011
-
-
-
Summer
meltdown continues on glaciers. NIWA
reports glacial volume loss.
-
Link to
Super
Mountain Lites & Access boots
-
Main Divide to the Sea - Our "HOT"
new expedition
including latest photos of our 4 day Fox
Glacier Exp.
-
4
day Mt. French Trek/Climb w/ Mt Aspiring
view. Details:
Mt Aspiring Treks
Photos:
Mt. French Expedition.
New!
Tips, Trix, Topos:
Boots, Footcare and Blisters
Other Useful Weather
Sites
Global Satellite Photos (from NASA)
Victoria University (Wellington, NZ)
Meteorological Site
University of Canterbury (NZ) Geography
Department
National (NZ) Institute of Water &
Atmospheric Research
(NIWA)
Glacier
shrinkage reported: Most of New Zealand's glaciers are now the
smallest they have been since records began - and they continue
to shrink at a rapid rate.
Keep Fit (and dry), Geoff Wayatt
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